A Weekend Getaway in Wuzhen
乌镇的周末游记
Written & Photos by (作者,图片来源): Yijun Fang 方毅俊
I first fell in love with Wuzhen when I watched the 2003 TV series //The Lost Years//. I also traveled to the town decades ago, and this second tour helped me see a side of the place I had never seen before.
The Tour
We booked a hotel in the Eastern section of the city. Even though there were throngs of tourists, I was quite excited. Upon entering we were surrounded by selfie sticks. I grabbed my wife’s hand and we made a detour through the crowds. We eventually found ourselves in an alley with fewer tourists. There were locals, but they went about their daily lives as if we didn’t exist.
It was as if there were two worlds inside the town.
The muggy weather before the coming storm in Ningbo was suffocating. Wandering through more crowded streets, I eventually lost interest in the ancient buildings. I sat on the cobblestone walkway on the side of the street with my wife, watching the selfie sticks, held by people taking pretentious poses.
We made our way to the Western District next, following our tour of the eastern area. Compared with the underdeveloped east part of town, the west is already sold-out. There are no people living here, only commercial hotels. Development of the area has led to a loss of scenic beauty. The water was filled with tour boats, the lanes with tourists and cameras. The streets were lined with shops selling the same identical trinkets and souvenirs.
Without a doubt, though, Wuzhen is still beautiful even after what we have done to her.
Early the next day we wandered along the undeveloped south side of the town. There were relatively few tourists. We got to watch the shop owners opening or closing shop. Two owners took down a board without making any sound. I looked through each shop, with their chatty owners, noisy kids. It was a long train of happiness in the narrow alleys. We watched as time passed and the shop owners went about their daily business.
Wuzhen is quiet in the morning. Time slowly flows and comes alive as the light hits the windows and carved walls. The sun snuck through the alleys and people slowly but surely woke up and came out.
I’m still fond of my trip to Wuzhen, despite the artificial development to lure more tourists. The silent walk through ancient lanes, people strolling along with umbrellas, talking with soft southern accents. The tipsy Wupeng boats gliding along the canals, the sunset, the old gates. These moments have left a mark in my memory that will never fade.
从2003年的那部连续剧《似水年华》开始，便爱上了这个江南小镇。大学时代，曾经慕名而来，十余年之后，重游旧地，感触颇多。
在网上预订的客栈离东栅景区很近，只有一百多米的距离，逐渐走近的时候，心情也随之雀跃。但尚未走进东栅，便已被那乌压压的人群给吓的倒吸了一口凉气。
买票进入景区，顿时便陷入自拍杆的重重包围。我拉着老婆的手，尽量远离熙熙攘攘的人群，兜兜转转里，转进了人烟稀少的小巷子。小巷中还有居民，恪守着自己的生活节奏，对于我们的闯入，没有任何的意外，仍旧按部就班做着自己的事情，对于墙外游客的吵闹熙攘，熟视无睹。
一墙之隔，便恍如两个世界。
台风来临前的乌镇，闷热难当。被挤在人群中，那些古朴的建筑也失去了往日对我的吸引力。和同样疲惫的老婆两人在路边的青石条上小坐，看着来来往往的人群、高高举起的自拍杆、还有那些趴在墙上做陶醉状拍照的文青们……对于古镇来说，不管是热闹还是冷清，无论是游人还是住客，都只是匆匆的过客而已吧。
这样的嘈杂，和江南水乡本该有的恬静，格格不入。
坐了乌篷船，沿着来时的河道往回而去。桨声摇曳里，有清风吹拂，总算是找回了一丝水乡的韵味。
草草的结束东栅的行程，循着路人的指引，到了西栅。
相比开发简单的东栅，西栅已经成为了一个纯粹的景区。没有了原住民，只有一家家统一经营的民宿。景区的开发便意味着失去了更多原汁原味的东西。河道里，满是乌篷船，游人在船里大呼小叫，闪光灯也是此起彼伏，每一个转角，总会遇见摆着各种姿势拍照的人群。路边的小店里，很多雷同的商品在售卖。
但不可否认的是，这样子的乌镇，依然是美丽的。
第二天一大早，在尚未开发的南栅闲走，鲜少有游人经过。看着店家在寂静中，把门板一块块卸下放好，一路漫不经心的走着，打量着那些开着小店、悠悠闲聊的店主，有孩童在身边打闹而过，在窄窄的街巷里，留下一长串的欢乐。我们就安静的看着时光在屋檐和砖石的缝隙里溜走。
乌镇应该是宁静的，时光在那些榫卯和雕花之间流转、凝固。早晨时分，阳光照进小巷，枕水而居的人们在炊烟袅袅和生活琐事里开始一天的生活，沉睡的古镇也渐渐苏醒。
这是最生活化的片段。
我依旧喜欢这样的乌镇，尽管人来人往、摩肩接踵，尽管已经被开发的不再那么原生态，但我依旧喜欢这里，喜欢在这里安静的散步；喜欢那小巷的寂静；喜欢看撑伞的人儿来来回回；喜欢看吴侬软语里，那条微醉的船横在水边；喜欢看落日从那屋檐的角落落下；喜欢那些木栅栏和旧屋檐里散发出的陈旧气息；更喜欢刘若英说的那句：来了，就不曾离开。
Two boats at night, clouds and birds are flying back.?The moon is bright the town is full of bridges, I’ll see you again in my dream, I’ll go to the mountains with you by my side.
两两归舟晚渡关，孤云倦鸟各飞还。月明乌镇桥边夜，梦里犹呼起看山。就让我从明朝诗人的诗句里，再一次回味那梦里江南旧时光吧
Get There |行
You can get to Wuzhen by car or train. It is a 2-3 hour drive from Ningbo. Take the Hangyong Highway, switching at Huhang Highway once you’ve arrived in Hangzhou. Exit at Tudian and drive past Tongxiang. From there, it should take 20 minutes to reach Wuzhen. To go by train, embark from Ningbo Railway Station and get off at Tongxiang Station. From there, take Bus 282 to Wuzhen Bus Station. The ride is 5 RMB per person and takes an hour. Be sure to check with each hotel for shuttle services.
全程约2~3小时的车程，走杭甬高速公路，到杭州转沪杭高速，到屠甸下高速，经桐乡，约20分钟可达乌镇。从宁波火车站出发，至桐乡站下，在门口可以直接坐282路公交车前往乌镇汽车站，票价5元/人，车程约一个小时。很多酒店会提供从酒店到乌镇汽车站的接送服务，在预定住宿时，请和店主确认。
Stay |住
There are numerous bed and breakfasts and family style hotels throughout Wuzhen. You can book online. There are different choices and price ranges to choose from according to budget and itinerary.
乌镇有很多民宿和家庭式旅馆，你可以通过各类旅行网站预定。如果你想住在东栅或西栅，也可以通过乌镇的官方网站进行预订。根据你预算和行程安排不同，会有各种档次价位的酒店民宿供您选择。
Dine | 吃
There are fantastic restaurants all around Wuzhen serving local favorites like mutton stew, duck stew with soy sauce, Dongpo Pork and Gusao cake. Eating within the West District is a bit pricey, but outside is more affordable.
乌镇内大小饭店遍布，红烧羊肉、东坡肉、酱鸭、姑嫂饼等都是不错的美食选择，你可以选择在西栅景区里用餐，当然，景区内价钱相对较贵，你也可以选择景区外的餐馆，有很多物美价廉的选择。